Luxury cheeses are increasingly targeted by black market criminals due to their high value and limited availability. These cheeses, such as the French Vacherin Mont d’Or or the Italian Parmigiano Reggiano, can fetch hefty prices, making them attractive to thieves. Vacherin, for example, is so rare in the U.S. that it’s highly sought after by those willing to pay a premium, especia
Similarly, Parmigiano Reggiano, which can be worth up to $500 for a single wheel, has become a popular target for theft in Italy, with criminals stealing large quantities from isolated warehouses. The rising demand for these artisanal cheeses, alongside regulatory barriers and the growing value placed on them, has made them a prime commodity for illicit trade.
In many cases, such thefts can severely impact local economies that rely on cheese production, further adding to the complexity of these crimes. Authorities are working to combat these thefts, though the allure of these luxury cheeses continues to fuel the black market.Luxury cheeses are increasingly targeted by black market criminals due to their high value and limited availability. These cheeses, such as the French Vacherin Mont d’Or or the Italian Parmigiano Reggiano, can fetch hefty prices, making them attractive to thieves. Vacherin, for example, is so rare in the U.S. that it’s highly sought after by those willing to pay a premium, especially given restrictions on importing raw milk cheeses.
In many cases, such thefts can severely impact local economies that rely on cheese production, further adding to the complexity of these crimes. Authorities are working to combat these thefts, though the allure of these luxury cheeses continues to fuel the black market.
Luxury cheeses are increasingly targeted by black market criminals due to their high value and limited availability. Cheeses like Vacherin Mont d’Or, which are difficult to import due to regulatory restrictions, and Parmigiano Reggiano, which can fetch hundreds of dollars per wheel, are especially sought after. These artisanal cheeses are not only rare but also have strong cultural and economic importance, particularly in regions where they are produced. The rising demand for these exclusive products and their hefty price tags make them prime targets for theft and illicit trade.
In July, dairy farmer Patrick Holden received an incredible order for 22 tonnes of his specialty cheese, Hafod, from a buyer claiming to represent a French supermarket chain. The order, worth £300,000 and arranged through Neal’s Yard Dairy, was one of the largest ever for his cheese. However, when the cheese was collected and sent to a depot in October, it mysteriously vanished. It turned out that the buyer was an imposter, and the entire order was part of a fraudulent scheme. The loss represented a huge setback for the farms involved, as the cheese was not only expensive but also a product of two years of effort.
The theft of 22 tonnes of luxury cheese, dubbed the “grate cheese robbery,” made global headlines. In October, a 63-year-old man was arrested but later released on bail, and the stolen cheese, worth £300,000, has since disappeared. This theft is part of a larger trend of rising food-related crimes, with the cheese industry being particularly targeted. Previous incidents include the theft of £50,000 worth of cheese from a service station in the UK and a 2016 heist of £80,000 worth of Parmigiano Reggiano in Italy.
The increase in cheese theft is linked to the rising value of luxury cheeses, with prices for food, including cheese, significantly climbing in recent years. These thefts, which are part of the broader global trend of food-related crimes, underscore the growing allure of high-value cheeses as commodities for criminals. Cheesemaking is an energy-intensive process, involving high energy use for heating milk and refrigerating the finished product. Due to disruptions caused by Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, energy prices surged, contributing to significant price increases for cheese. By 2024, cheese prices have risen more sharply than other food items, with cheddar alone increasing by 6.5%. As a result, cheese has become a prime target for thieves. However, stealing and selling cheese, especially farmhouse varieties, is complicated due to the need for specialized transport and storage. Only organized criminals can typically manage these logistics.
Organized crime has increasingly infiltrated the food industry, taking advantage of its global supply chains to smuggle illegal goods, such as drugs and stolen food. The National Food Crime Unit (NFCU) points to the 2013 horse meat scandal as a turning point in recognizing the link between food and criminal operations. Once criminals gain access to a legitimate food business, they exploit distribution networks for smuggling and moving illicit items, including high-value stolen foods like premium cheese. However, selling such stolen goods, particularly artisan cheeses, is difficult due to their niche market, leading many to believe that stolen cheese is often funneled into international black markets.
Following Russia’s annexation of Crimea in 2014, the country faced economic sanctions from the EU and other nations, which led President Vladimir Putin to impose a ban on fresh produce from these sanctioning countries. In response, Russian state television dramatized the ban by showing footage of foreign food, including large cheeses, being bulldozed, burned, or buried. This spectacle, known as “fromagicide,” gained global attention and highlighted the tensions between Russia and the West, as well as the extent of the black market for foreign goods in Russia.
Since Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine, sanctions have intensified, limiting the availability of Western goods like Scottish whisky and Norwegian salmon. In response, the black market for high-end foreign foods, particularly cheese and wine, has grown. These products are often smuggled into Russia through complex routes involving Belarus and Georgia. Local cheeses are seen as inferior to imported varieties, creating high demand for banned goods. Some individuals have resorted to extreme measures, such as smuggling large quantities of cheese across borders. Belarusian and other CIS countries have become hubs for importing European cheese, where labels are changed for resale in Russia. Corruption within government and border control systems facilitates this illegal trade, with digital networks and online orders making their way into Russian shops.
Paul Thomas, a former cheesemaking instructor in Russia, observed firsthand that despite sanctions, banned cheeses like Italian Parmigiano Reggiano and French Roquefort were openly sold in Moscow. Russian cheesemakers have also increased production, attempting to replicate European cheese varieties. This pattern of circumventing food regulations is not limited to Russia. In the Middle East, food subsidies in one country often encourage smuggling to regions with higher prices and no subsidies. Counterfeiting is also common, as in the US, where strict rules against raw milk cheeses lead to black market trafficking of unpasteurized products. Additionally, food counterfeiting is prevalent in the US, with fake cheeses made from unsafe ingredients, like parmesan adulterated with wood pulp.
In response to rising thefts and counterfeiting, the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium introduced innovative security measures in 2022, embedding microchips no larger than a grain of rice in the cheese’s rind. These chips allow each wheel of cheese to be tracked and authenticated, helping to prevent fraud and identify stolen cheese. Despite these efforts, the black market for the cheese remains robust, given its high value—generating nearly £3bn in global sales annually. Some cheese retailers, like Neal’s Yard Dairy, are also taking additional measures, such as visiting buyers in person to ensure the authenticity of large orders.
The theft of luxury cheeses, such as the October heist involving cheddar, has a significant impact on small farms, as these artisanal producers rely on their unique cheeses for income. The financial loss can be devastating, potentially leading to the end of a farm’s operation. The growing demand for luxury cheeses, coupled with factors like global conflicts and the cost-of-living crisis, is expected to continue fueling food fraud. As a result, cheesemakers may need to adopt even more stringent security measures to protect their products.
